Edinburgh has more bars per square mile than any other European city. These range from centuries old taverns, steeped in history to modern contemporary / chic executive meeting places. Here are just a few of the more outstanding ones.

Café Royal Circle Bar, West Register Street. New Town

Just a stone’s throw from Princes Street, the Circle is the main bar of the famous Café Royal with its renowned Oyster Bar restaurant. The Circle is steeped in Victoriana from ceiling to floor notably with its large island counter and fine fixtures, including unusual stained glass and tile-work. On the wall of the bar are Doulton tile pictures, featuring famous inventors, which were made especially for the Edinburgh International Exhibition of 1886. Sir Arthur Conan Doyle used to be a regular as the bar goes back to the 1800s.

The Bow Bar, Victoria Street. Old Town

Most of the 20th century missed the Bow Bar. Forget chic and fashion statements, this is a real old fashioned Edinburgh bar “with no frills”. Excellent for real ales and whiskies. Very good atmosphere which attracts a good cross-section of Edinburgh visitors and locals.

The Kenilworth, Rose Street. New Town

Established as a pub / bar at the turn of the 20th century, the Kenilworth has retained and built on its charm over the years. Clientele are now a mix of locals and tourists. Real ales, food all day. Worth pausing outside to admire the first floor windows.

The Abbotsford, Rose Street. New Town

Big, old traditional bar in what used to be a street of a thousand pubs! This is one of the long standing ones and still well patronised and respected. It is always busy and the reason is simple – good staff who care and a good selection of beers. Island bar, restaurant food upstairs with good traditional (again, not too difficult to overuse this word here) menu. Real ales, good selection of whiskies. A beautiful pub architecturally with a real Edinburgh feel.

Scotts, Rose Street. New Town

Used to be well known as Ma Scotts after the famous “not to be messed about with” host. A traditional corner pub with the bar unusually backing on to the street side. Real ales, range of wines and food served. Popular with pre-international rugby match supporters.

Bennets, Leven Street. South Side City

This is one of Edinburgh’s finest traditional bars. Its Victorian interior includes carved wooden gantries, stained-glass windows, large mirrors and glass-topped tables. Beer is well cellared and lunchtime food is plain but good and cheap. Situated next to the King’s Theatre.

Bannerman’s, Grassmarket

Nowadays this old traditional spacious Scottish bar is very popular with the pre-club crowd. Its Gothic style interior is a bit rustic but with its setting in the ancient Grassmarket the atmosphere is decidedly Scottish and Old Town Edinburgh in particular.